History of shoes

The Well Heeled

2011-12-30T16:46:00.001-08:00

Madame de Pompadour, (1721-64) was the advisor and paramour of Louis XV and had tiny feet. She wore distinctive heels which were named after her. The heels were high and curved into a small base. The style became very popular among the courtiers. For a short time French courtesans (high class call girls) bound their feet to catch the attention of the king. This corresponded to a time when Europeans were strongly influenced but the styles of China and Japan. The Chinese movement in Europe was eventually replaced by gothic. The foot binding was less severe and practiced by grown women. The foot was made smaller and these women wore tight high heeled shoes. The distinctive walk was considered extremely attractive to the French and Italian men. The origins of modern ballet come from this period of history. Empress Elizabeth Petrovna (1741-1762) was the daughter of Peter the Great and Catherine I. She was a most powerful ruler, and some say a ruthless one too. However in her private quarters she always insisted on being attended by Arab boys dressed in ankle high boots with upturned toes and extravagant ribbon bows. Her successor Catherine .the Great.” was rather well known for entertaining rather bigger boys in her boudoire. Marie Antoinette (1755–93) was the Queen of France and married to Louis XVI. Unhappy, the queen surrounded herself with a dissolute clique and threw herself into a life of pleasure and extravagance. She had shoes for all her outfits and her servants would catalogue them to prevent the Queen from wearing the same pair. Since her highness would rarely, if ever, appear outside her palaces, the shoes were delicate works of art with no practical function. In October 1793 she was tried by a revolutionary tribunal and sentenced to death by guillotine. After the trial Marie Antoinette was taken to the "bathroom of the condemned" for the brief interval before her execution. She took time to prepare herself with care, in the spirit. and in the body and wore a white dress with black stockings and fine heeled shoes. It was usual for these condemned to death to wear a mourning dress by Marie Antoinette was an exception. The Prince of Wales (Edward VIII 1936) was a man with style much on his mind he popularised spectator shoes (or two tone shoes). These were popular in the US and were very much associated with the new music popular at the time, Jazz. Edward also broke with convention and wore suede shoes for semi-formal, town wear. Until this time suede shoes were considered the sign of a cad and bounder. Edward played golf and was of often photographed wearing his two tone brogues. These too became very popular and remain so to this day. When King George VI (1895-1952. Ruled 1936-1952). Suddenly found he had difficulty in walking up hill, his doctors diagnosed the problem as flat feet. Unfortunately the king's arches may have fallen but the man was suffering from severe intermittent claudication. The blood flow to his arteries was severely hampered due to his excessive smoking. The man poor suffered dreadful pains in his legs and died from lung cancer. The few times Queen Elizabeth the Queen Mother was ever seen in public not wearing high heels was on a visit to South Africa in 1946. One of her shoe heels broke and the Princess Elizabeth had to gave her walking shoes to complete the trip. Seeming the Queen to be was very dismissive of her mother's behaviour and reported to have remarked 'How typical of mummy...' Princess Diana did break a Royal tradition whereas the Queen has always dressed perfectly; she often did so without care for popular fashion. Her clothes throughout have basically remained modified, fifties fashion. The shoes represent the top of the range and are available in retail chains where they sell in the millions to the middle aged, middle class women in their millions. Diana, rather like the Queen Mother was a dedicated follower of fashion and carried a large, expensive wardrobe of designer clothing. She had shoes for all occasions from low heeled loafers to high heeled shoes in gold and silver. Jimmy Choo made shoes for Princess Diana and on the day of her death her shoe maker had an appointment to deliver handmade shoes. The Princess only wore higher heeled shoes after her divorce from the Prince, for the primary reason she was obliged to wear flat heels so as not to tower over the future king.

Shoes and sex

2011-12-26T19:33:00.000-08:00

“If ever a shoe style represented a symbol of social status then the long toed shoe of the Middle Ages remains unsurpassed. The fashion lasted for four centuries, unbroken.”

Introduction
Footwear throughout history has supplied a social ritual, the knowledge of which indicated, breeding and status. The wealthy classes of the Middle Ages indulged their superiority by wearing sumptuous clothing and shoes became symbols, serving to indicate standards of conduct as well as emotional states. During the High Middle Ages fashion took a bizarre turn and the glitterati of European courts wore poulaines or, very long toed shoes. As the centuries passed, men’s footwear grew longer and longer until they were 24” longer than the feet they protected. Normal walking was impossible and young dandies stiffened their peaks with moss and grass ensuring the true purpose of the shoe dildos was obvious. Despite the fashion’s longevity no rational explanation has ever been proffered to explain the phenomenon. In the spirit of zeitgeist the author attempts to now fill that void. The fashion began at the same time the first Crusaders were returning from the Holy Lands (The First Crusade, 1095–99).

Chivalry
As European society emerged from the Dark Ages, high culture prevailed in the Empire of Islam which extended from India to Spain. When the two cultures clashed Knights were surprisingly impressed by the sophistication of the mystic culture of the Sufis. For centuries the Sufis developed a mystical path of love where the sensual and the spiritual came bonded in an ecstatic way. It was never clear whether the poet was praising a human beloved or the divine beloved or one shining through the other. Modern scholars acknowledge the influence of Islam formed the basis for European Chivalry and Courtly Love. The conventions of courtly love taught young men to sublimate their desires and channel their energies into socially useful behaviour. To do otherwise might have threatened social stability especially at a time when feudal lords and knights were engaged in the Crusades. For people to break these taboos only reinforces the strength and drive for sexual pleasure which transcend any moral precept.

Courtly Love
Courtly love flourished in the early 12th century during the cultural renaissance that followed the first Crusades. It involved the passionate devotion of lover and loved one. The relationship was always illicit i.e. the woman was the wife of another, often a lord or patron and its consummation was virtually impossible. The high minded ideas about romance spread when troubadours sang openly of love’s joys and heartbreaks in daringly personalised terms, extolling the ennobling effects of the lover’s’ selfless devotion. The troubadours (the term is derived from the Arabic word 'tare', meaning musical enchantment) promoted a love yearned for, and at times rewarded by, the solace of every delight of the beloved except physical possession by intercourse. Courts of Love were held to publicise the rules of love and the ladies who presided at the courts taught society about the new way to live and love.

Domnei & Donnoi
The aristocrats of Provencal idealized got married for political reasons but upheld two "intimate ceremonies" as a form of courtship. Domnei or woman worship was a custom where the would-be suitor gazed on the partly or fully undressed lady; and Donnoi was when the couple lay naked together sometimes separated by a pillow. The test was the lover had to prove his depth of love by avoiding intercourse. This was sensual, carnal and openly encouraged the delights of kissing and embracing. The sight of a beloved’s nudity and the touching of her body provoked desire. Under these circumstances it would be no stretch of the imagination to work out what gainful employ a 24" long extension on the foot might be put towards. Indeed at a public banquet an average sized adult male with two 24 " long extensions on his feet could keep three women perfectly happy under the table, leaving his hands free to enjoy a health repast.

Long Toed Shoes

The fashion lasted four centuries and although it ebbed and waned in that time, the length of shoes got longer until the style was abruptly halted in the early 15th century. Through its zenith, shoe length was subject to papal condemnation as well as sumptuary laws which always restricted excesses to the less wealthy. Despite this the fashion remained even although it caused men to walk unnaturally and ungainly with a wide based, high stepping gait. A particular fad of the young nobles who attended the court of William Rufus was to wear shoes with long tapering points like scorpions’ tails. Orderic Vitalis was an English born monk who spent the whole of his religious life in the Norman Abbey of Evroul and recorded much of the social events of his time and according recorded a fool in the court called Robert was the first to stuff the points of his shoes with flax so they could be curled back in the form of a ram’s horn. He was subsequently given the ribald nickname Cornadus, meaning ‘Horner” or Horny.

Symptoms of Tertiary Syphilis
The same pattern of movement is seen in tabes dorsalis, a sequestrate of tertiary syphilis where spirochetes destroys the central nervous system. Syphilitic myelopathy is a disorder characterized by muscle weakness and abnormal sensations caused by untreated syphilis infections. Loss of proprioception causes coordination difficulties which contribute to problems of wide based walking. The same infection causes widespread damage to the nerves of the brain and results in personality changes, mood changes, hyperactive reflexes, abnormal mental function including hallucinations and delusions, decreased intellectual functioning, and speech changes. This is known as General paralysis of the insane and typically begins about 15-20 years after the original syphilis infection.
The Court Jester

"When the king was a syphilitic semi-imbecile, a jester even more grotesque may have served as a useful stage prop, disarming criticism by making the king look more nearly normal by comparison and thus making the make-believe of kingship possible."

(Willeford, 1969 p156).

Syphilis was long been thought to be a disease introduced to Europe in the 15th century (carried by Christopher Columbus’s crew). Hence historians have had no reason to seek evidence of its existence prior to this date. Recent discoveries of human remains in Hull, England, have revealed syphilitic pitting and the bones have these have been carbon dated to the 11th century. The presence of the pox and the knowledge of its transmission would give reason to influence sexual practices.
Safe sex
The urge to prevent pregnancy was actively and creatively pursued since Onan spilled his seed (Genesis). Pre modern peoples of Europe regulated family size and women in antiquity had significant control over their reproductive lives. From ancient times a foreign object placed in the uterus was thought to prevented pregnancy and in periods when marriage was delayed it has been assumed that masturbation was an outlet. Until the Middle Ages women practiced birth control with little interference from religious or civil authorities. In courtly love shoe shaped dildos may have been used as sex toys and/or a means of physical contraception used after intercourse. The long shoe style may also have provided protection from sexually transmitted disease and or masked the symptoms. In a similar manner in Oriental Society, sexualisation of the Lotus Foot may have been for the same reasons.
Foot sex
The association between feet and sex is found no clearer than in the Orient. The origins of foot binding are clouded although aesthetic appreciation of the small foot was present in early Chinese literature. Documentation of the foot binding starts from the 10th Century. Maintaining the Lotus foot (3” long) ensured hypersensitivity of the foot arch and forced the child to walk with small steps. Deportment was important and thought to increase the labial folds and muscle tone of the pelvic floors. The vagina was tight for life and the soles of the feet became second vaginas. Pedal sex was contemporary in the ancient world.

But what global event would cause two diverse societies separated by thousands of miles and eons of culture to adopt such a curious preoccupation with feet and sex? It had to be disease.

Fact or fantasy
What I have just recounted is conjecture, and in the absence of written evidence must remain so. Whether shoes became sex toys by necessity and sexualisation of the foot, a focus for safe sex, will never be clear. However something strange did happened in the 11th century and this has influenced our sexual behaviours to date. As an anthropologist/sociologist who studies the foot in health and disease, I could not finish this presentation without a foot note. The end of the fashion for long toed shoes came abruptly in the early 15th century. From contemporary paintings, the only evidence available, the style was quickly replaced by shoes which were so broad across the ball if the foot as to boast of individual compartments for each toe. The podiatrist’s delight was called Bears Paws. The same style is seen today in post surgical moon boots used to support and protect injured tissue. One other outcome of neurosyphilis is Charcot foot where trophic ulceration decimates the sole of the foot making walking in anything other than shoe boxes, impossible. By the 16C a new class of courtiers had emerged and deportment took on social significance where appearance reflected moral attitudes. Clothing became more rigid, to impose a standard form.

Being well heeled in antiquity

2010-07-03T17:10:00.001-07:00

In antiquity, efforts to control personal regulation were related to the general mode of living rather than of dress. The Greeks had some laws relating to clothing, such as; women could only wear three garments at a time. This may account for why most women went barefoot. The amount of money to be spent of clothing was also regulated by the wealth of the family. Sumptuary laws in Rome included the Lex Orchia which was passed in 187 BC. This related to the number of invited people who might attend a feast. The Lex Fannia was passed in 161 BC and regulated, the cost of entertainment. According to Brundage, 1987) the Roman Lex Oppia, was adopted in 215 BC and later repealed 195 BC with the Lex Valria Fundiana. He described the action of Marcus Porcius Cato who argued lifting restrictions of women's dress would invite moral decadence and social upheaval. He was right and both followed in quick pursuit. Colour and material were very important as a means of depicting rank in Roman time.. Laws were passed restricting peasants (plebs) to one colour; officers could wear two colours; commanders three; and members of the royal household up to seven colours. The colour purple was always reserved for the royal family. Scarlet could be worn only by royal family members and high noblemen.

During the reign of Claudius I (AD 41-54), his marines were ordered to go barefoot after some demanded compensation from the emperor for the marching shoes the marines had wore out. As a result the entire fleet were forbidden from wearing shoes. At the time of Emperor Aurelian, (Lucius Claudius Domitius Aurelianus (AD 270 - 275) the colours yellow, white, red or green were reserved exclusively for women. The only exception to this was he reserved the right to wear red or purple for himself and his sons. He banned his wife from buying purpura-dyed silk garments because it cost its weight in gold. Only ambassadors to foreign lands might wear gold rings, and men were strictly forbidden from wearing silk garments of any sort.

When Roman soldiers returned victorious to Rome they frequently celebrated by substituting the bronze nails in their caligae (war sandals) with gold and silver tacks. The fashion caught on and patricians began to wear ornamentation on their shoes with gold and jewels. Such alarm was raised with the fashion for shoe bling Emperor Heliogabalus (AD 218-222) banned the practice. Heliogabalus had his own shoes decorated with diamonds and other precious stones, engraved by the finest artists. During the more luxurious days of the Roman Empire, thongs were decorated with gold and precious stones. Sumptuary laws and price controls were later imposed by Gaius Valerius Diocletianus (AD 245-313), in AD 301.

During Roman times footwear came in many styles and colours each reflecting class distinctions. Only male citizens were entitled to wear the toga and the calceus (a shoe or short boot). The colour of the calceus always indicated social standing. The reason for this had much to do with the cost of dying materials which was very expensive. Red was, at first, the colour for high magistrates (in the service of Edile); but later became the Emperor's prerogative.

Reference
Brundage JA 1987 Sumptuary laws and prostitution in late Medieval Italy Journal of Medieval History 13:4 343-355.

On A Pedestal: From Renaissance Chopines to Baroque Heels at the Bata Museum

2009-11-30T03:39:00.000-08:00

"On A Pedestal: From Renaissance Chopines to Baroque Heels," is the title of an exhibition at the Bata Shoe Museum (runs until Sept. 20, 2010). On display are rarities from around the world featuring the chopine (platform) from 16th century Italy to the fashionable high heel of the 17th-century.

Women’s Shoes in America: 1795 to 1930

2009-10-10T20:53:00.000-07:00

Women’s Shoes in America: 1795 to 1930. by Nancy Rexford is a beautifully illustrated book (over 400 drawings) outlining the culture of womens’ shoe in the US. There are two sections to the book: Part 1 is a "A History of Women's Footwear in America", and discusses the history of the American shoe industry and surveys changing styles of shoes, boots, boudoir slippers, overshoes and sports shoes. It examines the relationship between women's footwear and women's roles in the context of 19th-century culture, as well as providing specific information about the evolving etiquette that governed women's choices in shoes. In Part 2, "Dating Women's Shoes, 1795-1930", there is a detailed reference for dating surviving shoes. This is a must for all collectors.

New book: 50 shoes that changed the world

2009-10-07T16:31:00.000-07:00

The London Design Museum’s “Changed the World” series will have a new edition next month. “Fifty Shoes That Changed the World” lists the top 50 shoe designs that have made a substantial impact in the world of design today. From the 1863 Frye boot to Zaha Hadid’s 2008 Melissa shoe, each entry offers a short appraisal to explore what has made their iconic status and the designers that give them a special place in design history. Other shoes to receive the historical treatment include the Galosh, Platform Shoes, The Waffle Trainer and Crocs.

Platform Shoes: Shoe exhibition

2009-07-17T03:25:00.000-07:00

“The Heights of Fashion: Platform Shoes Then and Now” is an exhibition which highlights examples of platform shoes, sandals and boots from the 1930s till present time. The exhibition is currently at the Mint Museum of Art in Charlotte, North Carolina. On view are high fashion platform shoes by couture designers like Vivienne Westwood, Jimmy Choo, Ruthie Davis and Roger Vivier, whose innovative designs incorporated modern engineering with vintage inspiration. Salvatore Ferragamo, who elevated the platform shoes from casual beachwear to high fashion in the 1930s was the first to introduce the wedge heel. Fetish platform shoes with thick soles and very high heels appeared as early as 1920s and continue to hold an important place in the fashion market. Also at the Mint Museum of Art is the “The Art of Affluence: Haute Couture and Luxury Fashions 1947 – 2007” an ode to classic designers such as Chanel, De la Renta, Dior, Givenchy, Saint Lauren and Valentino. The cherry on the cake is Elton John’s haute couture ensemble by Versace.

Brief outline of the history of designer sneakers

2009-06-06T04:11:00.000-07:00

People in the 19th century loved trains and when a five working day week became norm, urban families clambered to visit the seaside particularly in the summertime. Working boots were discarded as day trippers wanted to shoes walk through the sand. Sand shoes were lightweight canvas topped rubber soled shoes and thanks to vulcanisation of rubber were cheap, flimsy and usually wore out after a day’s wear. To reinforce the shoe a thin, flat rubber band was wrapped around the shoe and because this looked like a plimsoll line, they were called plimsolls and usually painted white. The significance of the colour was form a distance they could resemble white croquet shoes (made from kangaroo skin) and worn by the well to do. White plimsolls became a fashion icon of the younger working class and promenaders keen to look their best wore them with flannels and a Madras jackets. The simple plimsoll evolved into many other forms including the tennis shoe where sole patterns were added to improve grip; and in the US the high top shoe was worn to protect the ankle in games like basketball and baseball. In the US at the turn oif the 20th century Converse introduced the high top Converse All Stars (or Chucks - named after Chuck Taylor a famous 30s basketball player). During the wars servicemen were issued with canvas topped rubbers for exercise and most took them home as souvenirs. Soon their older kids were wearing them to dance to quick tempo dance music of Swing and Jive. By the end of the thirties an Australian called Adrian Quist was a tennis champion and realized ground traction was the secret to better foot control on grass surfaces. Eventually he convinced the Dunlop Rubber Company to include tread patterns on their tennis shoes and Dunlop Volleys were born. Younger children wore gym shoes when the schools’ curriculum started to include compulsory physical exercise. The appeal of American sneakers was confirmed when James Dean and Elvis Presley were photographed wearing low cut canvas topped rubber soled shoes. Chucks and Keds became a byword for teenage rebellion.

Today the big footwear companies target inner city youth Afro-American, Hispanic and Asians demographics. Promotions rely heavily on “cultural influencers,” like bold colours and logos to appeal to cultural sensitivities in “ethnic pride.” Commodifying ethnicity is a deliberate marketing strategy to attract new and brand loyal consumers among inner city, low socio-economic groups. High priced designer trainers have obvious appeal to street gangs keep expressing their individualism and sartoria. US street gangs like LA Crips and Bloods wear specific designer trainers as part of their uniform. Preferred brands are those worn by popular hip hop gangsters and rap artists. Colours play an important role in gang clothing i.e. blue in Crips’ and red for Bloods. As a result many leading sport shoe companies deliberately court the patronage of popular rappers and some continue to make reference to gang behaviours in their lyrics or videos. Probably the most obvious and up front example is in Michael Jackson's Extended Music Video, “The way you make me feel “. The video starts with the Crip Walk and Michael Jackson is wearing a blue shirt. Some shoe companies have had to distance themselves from affinity with street culture by renaming some of their shoe lines such as adidas did with their 'Hemp" range, which was renamed “Gazelle natural, after public outrage. Also things like ‘stash pockets’ feature less in shoe design. Many high schools and universities have now banned footwear associated with gangs. Subsequent merging of music with fashion has seen leading sneaker companies working in close tandem with well-known graffiti, tattoo and sneaker artists to create an individual aesthetic which attract collectors. The popularity of Retro sneakers (reintroduction of older classic styles) is principally to allow the younger customers the opportunity to own a pair of originals. Another reason for the retro perspective is many of the companies are now reaching critical birthdays which give them ideal opportunity to niche market classics. Corporate take-overs have also seen a crop of retro styles make comebacks as new parent companies are keen to see new life breathed into old established names like Converse (1908) and Reebok. Up until quite recently being smart definitely did not mean being ostentatious but all that changed as more rap royalty become actively involved in shoe retail and design. Run–D.M.C arguably started the pimp shoe movement by immortalised their favourite runners in song “My adidas.” This started a landslide of interest with rappers designing their own footwear range. Hip hop impresario Jay-Z was the first rapper to receive a sneaker deal with a mainstream shoe company. He then went on to set up his own clothing and accessories line. Reggaetón, Daddy Yankee released his signature collection of athletic footwear DY and many others have followed.

The move from competition to freestyle skateboarding in the 90's meant boarder (now called slashers) were no longer restricted to skateboard parks. The popularity of thrashing brought a revolution in clothing which was heavily influenced by hardcore punk and hip hop. Skateboard shoes (decks) was another mutation of canvas topped trainers made by independent companies like Vans, Airwalk and Vision Street Wear. These sold in huge quantities and were bought by young people keen to avoid the shoes sold by sport shoe giants like Nike and adidas. Skateboard attire became a fashion counter culture more in tune with Grunge than Bling- bling.

Experts believe the drive for the sneaker phenomena relates to a mix of popular culture, nostalgia, technology and investment. In the past, high profile sports personalities were used by the major companies to endorse their products but due to recent falls from grace and spurious claims that sport shoes either prevent injuries or improve competitive times have caused the companies to rethink their strategy. Whilst the main bulk of sport shoes are sold for sport a significant market is directed at ath-leisure or fashionable trainers. The shelf life of a trendy trainer is short (3 months) and companies like Nike and adidas are forever introducing new lines. To add incentive companies offer "quick hit" shoes which is a clever marketing ploy and involves the sale of a small number of limited edition shoes as a special offer in selected outlets for a limited period of time only. With minimum advertising these events are hurriedly communicated through networks, websites and SMSs. Sneakerheads range from casual fans of sneaker fashion to those who buy and sell shoes like blue chip investments. The shoes can cost hundreds and even thousands of dollars depending on their cachet. Some wear them, and have multiple pairs (in case one gets scuffed); whereas others keep them in their boxes and store in a bank and or display them, unworn. Shoe collectors will often determine what will sell and companies are obliged to follow. There are many web sites (Nicekicks.com and Sneaker Freaker), magazines (Sole Collector), books, songs and even radio shows all dedicated to sneaker culture. The phenomena have caught the media’s attention and now there are several TV documentaries on the subject.

What lay behind Tamara Mellon's success?: New book

2009-05-31T16:14:00.000-07:00

Lauren Goldstein Crowe and Sagra Maceira de Rosen have written a revealing unofficial biography on Tamara Mellon’s meteoric rise of rags to riches and background to her celebrity promotions in a new book called The Towering World of Jimmy Choo: A glamorous story of power, profits, and the pursuit of the perfect shoe (Barnes and Noble). Tamara Mellon founded the company Choo in 1996. Jimmy Choo had previously worked in obscurity as a cobbler in the East End of London. Mellon used her celebrity contacts selling Jimmy Choo creations for upward of $800 US per pair and soon established a luxury business with a turnover in the millions. Sadly the bubble burst and Mellon and Choo parted company as Mellon’s business and social life went into in turmoil. In 2007 she sold the Choo company for a reported £185m. This tell all book gives much of the detail.

The history of wooden shoes

2009-05-03T03:17:00.000-07:00

Although light sandals carved from smooth wood were discovered in the tombs of ancient Egyptians it is generally thought it was the Greeks then that Etruscan that used pattens and clogs. Wooden shoes were exquisitely carved and worn high (platform style) to keep the feet dry. The wooden shoes were highly decorated and included inlaid mother of pearl and silver. Some had jingles others woven sheaths to cover the forefoot. Turkish clogs were held next to the foot with a toe grip, similar to sandals. Because of the unique sound of the wooden shoe on the tile the footwear were called kapkaps and became were associated particularly with the Eastern Mediterranean. The fashion was most often found in the coastal areas of Asia Minor, Syria, and Egypt, from the Nile to the Euphrates. The origins of kapkaps remains clouded but most likely these were associated with ceremonial dress before they became a general fashion. Overshoes made from wood (pattens) were also know in Roman Times and worn by people living in the Ardennes region (Belgium and Luxembourg and parts of France). In Roman Times the Ardenne was inhabited by the Gauls and the wooden overshoe became known as "galoche" which later evolved into galoshes. Wooden pattens were serviceable, hardwearing and provided protection from the wet ground. Romans wore wooden clogs in the hot baths and these were referred to as "Tyrrhenian sandals." Wooden shoes were also worn in other parts of the world such as in Japan where young girls went to the temple wearing wooden clogs or getas. These were platform wooden shoes often 3-4 inches from the ground and were worn with tabi, a special sock. The Geta were made from nezuko wood because it was waterproof, lightweight and hardwearing. Reference to clogs was common place in the songs, poems and novels of the Meiji period at the turn of this century. For centuries Samuari warriors wore geta and zori sandals.

A new blog entitled Wooden shoes traces the history of clogs through the centuries.

Tour the Bata Museum on your mobile phone

2009-04-29T23:06:00.000-07:00

The Bata Shoe Museum has created an exciting and innovative audio tour. Visitors are led on a journey through some of the Museum’s most intriguing stories. Using their own mobile phones visitors can learn about the history of the Museum. The tour is brought to life with the help of leading interpretive audio tour specialist Tour-Mate Systems Canada. Visitors simply dial a number from their mobile phone and listen to information about the specified artifact or exhibit. Each tour stop ranges from one to two minutes. Visitors will also be able to share and comment on the various tour stops and their experience at the Museum by recording their thoughts via voicemail. The Museum’s unique collection houses over 12,500 artifacts and spans 4,500 years of history, from the earliest civilizations on earth to the catwalks of today’s leading designers.

Elizabeth Semmelhack:Heights of Fashion: A History of the Elevated Shoe

2009-04-26T03:30:00.001-07:00

Heights of Fashion: A History of the Elevated Shoe by Elizabeth Semmelhack, curator of Toronto's Bata Shoe Museum.
The book chronicles the history of women's (and men's) struggle to appear taller than they actually are. Drawing on historical sources, paintings and prints, this explores how and why shoes or boots with high heels came into common use throughout the last five centuries.

History of shoes : Good resource

2009-04-24T13:54:00.001-07:00

A brief but informed history of shoes posted on the Northampton Borough Coucil website(UK).

Sneakerology at University

2009-03-28T15:43:00.001-07:00

According to the Pittsburgh Post-Gazette, " Sneakerology 101" is a class at Carnegie Mellon University where students explore the impact of sneakers on identity and culture. In the true spirit of zeitgeist, sneaker fashion is a reflection of the time we live in and encapsulates not only new polymer technologies but also the combined experience of shoe makers from the beginning of time. Whilst shoes may appear the same as the ‘originals’ the addition of new polymers developed for and post Space Age mean even retro shoes in the 21st century whose form may appear similar to that which went before are unique and ‘out of this world shoes.’ Since it s inception last year “Sneakerology 101” attracts many students most of which want to come back the following year just to catch up with the changes. The one-credit, pass/fail offering attracts novices as well as the sneaker obsessed. The course covers topics including early hip-hop roots and New York City street fashion, footwear advertising and consumerism, shoe design and technology, and the effect of boutiques and limited-edition releases. Carnegie Mellon University had some concerns at first because they could only credit the course once however students don’t seem to mind spending the extra time in the classroom and continue to come back. Since its debut last year, “Sneakerology 101” has developed an Internet following among sneaker freakers. Carnegie Mellon delivers Sneakerology through the school's student college, an initiative that lets students explore and teach subjects not available through regular university offerings. As a mid-term assignment, students must design their own sneaker and compose a 200-to-300 word description of its makeup and what inspired it. For their final exam, ‘Sneakerology 101’ students take part in "Kicksburgh," campus event with vendors and artists that celebrates the city's urban fashion and footwear. Last year attendees were asked to donate a pair of used sneakers to Soles4Souls, a non-profit organization that provides shoes to victims of natural disasters in third-world countries.

Sneaker History: Good Book

2009-03-28T15:35:00.000-07:00

Garcia B 2003 Where'd You Get Those? New York City's Sneaker Culture: 1960-1987 Barnes and Noble.

The author takes a sentimental journey back to the early days of sneakers when they were the province of "sneakerfreakers" and ball players. The book is beautifully illustrated throughout with photographs of classic shoes, basketball players, break dancers and advertisements of the time. The author has put together an informed and comprehensive study of shoe culture. According to the DJ Cucumberslice (aka Garcia) during the ninties a fanatical coalition of Big Apple basketball players, graffiti writers, break-dancers, and rappers dedicated themselves to stylistic possibilities of their shoes. By systematically colouring and customizing them including devising elaborate lacing patterns the result was some models became cult. His blend autobiography, oral history, vintage ads, grainy shots of urban glamour, and detailed description of individual sneakers means this book a rich vain of anthropology and a must for any serious collector.

A brief history of the plastic thong

2009-03-22T18:18:00.000-07:00

After the Second World War there was great need to build economies and create employment in Asia. One of the first industries to boom was the footwear industry and mass-produced plastic sandals became a major export. By the fifties new moulding techniques for rubber and plastic were introduced in Taiwan and elsewhere which allowed cheaper shoes to be turned out in their millions. Wooden sandals had always been worn by ordinary people in Asia and the simple single plugger thong became the shoe of choice. Many countries claim to be the originator but the style dates to the Stone Age and ranks as one of the first shoes to be worn. Wooden sandals were worn in the Middle East and India, rice straw sandals in China and Japan, rawhide sandals in Africa and papyrus sandals dating to 1500 B.C in Egypt. In Persia sandals were crafted from wood and had a toe separator between the first and second toe with no thong. Platform soles were worn in bath houses and harems. Often the wooden sandals were intricately inlaid with pearl and other semi precious stones. By Biblical times sandals were commonly worn throughout much of the known world. Wooden sandals were worn throughout the Middle East and India and are clearly depicted on sculptures, temples and in Sanskrit writing, circa 3000 BCE. Wood presumably was hard wearing, readily available and preferred by some religious sects e.g. Hindus, who would not wear leather. It remains unclear whether these sandals were indigenous to India or taken from Persia (or vice versa). Trade between the Western and Eastern civilization was well established in antiquity e.g. Spice and Silk Routes and it is expected fashion exchange also took place. In Japan there were two styles of traditional sandal i.e. the zori and the geta. Zori are flat bottomed sandals originally made with a straw sole and leather thongs held between the first and second toes. These are also known as Tatami Sandals. These were widely used in Japan from at least the Heian period (794-1185). There is no history to indicate whether these were indigenous or imported to Japan. The Japanese geta is a wooden platform sandal held to the feet by a flexible thong (sometimes rope, sometimes a thong covered in a black velveteen kind of fabric) that goes through the base of the sandal, up between the big toe and the second toe and then the two ends go over the arch back toward the middle or back of the foot. Getas are worn barefoot whereas Zori and Tatami sandals are worn with tabi, which is white cotton foot covering (like socks) with a split toe, between the big toe and the other four toes for the sandal thong. In 1956, the Olympic Games were covered on television for the first time and the eyes of the world fell on Melbourne, Australia. When the Japanese swimming team came to the pool side they wore getas. The ceremonial procession became a camera spectacle which was broadcast all over the world. The fashion for plastic flip flop sandals soon followed thanks to a Hong Kong based shoe manufacturer, John Cowie who had previously seen Getas, Tatami and Zori sandals on a visit to Japan. He took advantage of the new plastic industry and started to mass produce plastic thongs. New Zealander, Maurice Yock took the idea and patented the first pair of rubber thongs which he called Jandals (a combination of Japan and Sandal) in 1957. Plastic sandals were mass produced cheaply in Japan and became a stable post war manufacturing industry especially when they started selling all over the world. New Zealand sales rocketed and soon Australians wanted to wear the casual sandals they had seen on the Melbourne Olympics. Other parts of the far east also had variation on the thong type of sandal i.e. in Singapore the thong attachment was replaced with a strap across the top of the foot which followed the metatarsal heads (the Singapore Slide), and in Philippines the wooden platform thong had ornate carvings. These regional variations are considered unique to these regions. The US troops posted to the Pacific eagerly took home carved platform sandals as souvenirs and many believe this was why sandals became popular in the US after the war. By the mid to late 50s in UK and Western Europe the new plastic flip flops from the east were a must for all package holiday tourists visiting the sun kissed beaches of the Mediterranean. In the 60s cheap shoes found popularity among many low social economical demographics including populations previously used to wearing straw espadrilles. In South America the plastic pluggers were called Havaianas (pronounced ha-vie-yon-ahs) or flip-flops. In recent years the humble flip flop has become staple fair for the elegant fashionista but to the best of my knowledge Australia remains the only place on Earth where the Double Plugger holds sartorial sway.

The Street History of a shoe

2009-03-09T17:48:00.000-07:00

The Air Jordan Documentary takes an in depth look at the Air Jordan shoes from a street an historical point of view. The DVD comes with a novel Twenty Thr23 by A.R. Shaw. Shaw is an Atlanta hip-hop reporter and sneaker freak.

Air Jordan Documentary! 23 The Street History of a Shoe

Golf Shoes

2009-03-03T00:20:00.000-08:00

Golf Shoes Blog

This is an excellent blog on golf shoes

The fashion of shoes

2009-03-02T01:31:00.001-08:00

Featured in the latest zani.co.uk is The fashion of shoes .

History of shoes and chocolate

2009-02-11T22:00:00.001-08:00

Jefferson County Historical Society Museum have a special exhibition this Valentines’ entitled Chaussures et Chocolat: A History of Shoes and Chocolate . The exhibition by Lenka Walldroff, Collections Manager and Curator will recount the history of shoe couture beginning in 17th century France and the use of chocolate as an aphrodisiac in pre-Columbian South America. The clever twining captures the love women have for shoes and chocolate.

More information
curator@jeffersoncountyhistory.org

Made for Skate: The Book

2009-02-09T16:52:00.000-08:00

It is estimated sk8ers' shoes are worth a cool $800 million (US) market per year. The kicks with attitude now have not only exhibitions but also a tome dedicate to them and their history. The book has a limited run of 1000 copies so unlikely to get a copy but it is available electronically (for free).

Skatebaord Museum

Shoes and the Roaring Twenties

2009-01-21T14:44:00.000-08:00

Despite the unsettling effects of the First World War, the 1920s stood out as a bright, youth orientated period with great enthusiasm for its own time. People had confidence in the future. Woman's fashions included more leg on show and the impacting fashion was immense. According to Bond (1992) the sight of young women confidently wearing clothing which showed their knees and thighs as they got in and out of cars, or sat on trains and buses represented the allure of glamour dressing in its most potent form. Daytime shoes were neat and feminine looking, with oval toes and straight, high heels. The classic court shoe was an everyday basic but the new look, slender high heeled sandals with ankle and "T straps" in reptile skins, soft kid, suede and satin were very much the desire of most. Shoe styles reflected contemporary events and with the sensational opening of the tomb of Tutankhamen came a fashion flurry for all things Egyptian. Fashionable shoes were no different and often sported designs and trapping of the rich and exotic culture. Gold and silver 'Charleston' sandals were very popular and a ready accessory for eveningwear. Shoe designs of the 20s reflected art deco style with mixtures of leather and suede. Many styles boasted of cushioned heels for dancing. Shoes had pointed toes with low heels many with button straps shoes and pierced hole design over the toe box (brogue style). Evening shoes were immaculately presented, matt fabrics were always well brushed and leather buffed to a high gloss. Strappy designs were a popular feature in elegant evening shoes. The straps were sometimes plaited or made of satin ribbon and crossed over like ballet pumps. Other styles were dotted with glitter and fastened with fancy gold, silver or diamante buckles. The sides and heels of the shoes were sometimes decorated with tiny gold flecks or diamante tips. Other shoes were covered with fabric to match a particular dress. Alternatively dresses in plain velvet satin or chiffon were worn with patterned shoes. High heeled sandals covered in eye-catching, glittering brocade became the focus of leg watching. Men followed fashion in a more clandestine way and style was shown in subtle forms and imagery displayed within the bounds of long established conventions. During the 20s, the English style was at its most classic with emphasis on being dressed in high quality, perfectly fitting clothing which flattered rather than promoting a strong designer look. The more extreme image of men's fashion included the two-tone shoes, which at the time were thought to be very brash. These styles, according to Bond (1992) were popular among a few male groups including students, celebrities and artists. Changes for men were slow and conservative whereas radical fashion changes had taken place for women during this period. The main shift in fashion for men was also on the legs. Unlike women's preoccupation with how much of the leg should be shown off with fit and up and down hemlines, the controversy for men was how much fabric should be used to cover them up. At the beginning of the twentieth century men wore tailored trousers which were both slim and tapered. Sportswear was also conservative with modestly wide knickerbockers. The name came from the Dutch living in New York at the turn of the century and continued to wear traditional knee pants. By the 1920s these ballooned out into baggy plus fours. The number depicted the length in inches, the trousers hung below the knee. During a very hot summer Oxford students were banned from wearing them and defiantly continued to wear them under loosely fitting wide, legged trousers. Called Oxford bags. These measured as much as 66cm (26") round the trouser bottoms and would hide the forbidden knickerbockers. Later oarsmen wore the style of trouser over their shorts. Only those who could afford it wore these styles and the fashion soon caught on in the US. By the end of the decade, men's trousers were cut fuller.

Shoes:The influence of Hollywood

2009-01-19T14:30:00.000-08:00

According to Bredemeier & Toby (cited in Roach & Eicher, 1965) Hollywood did not invent acceptable appearance but was probably responsible for narrowing its range of acceptable variation and exhibited them to millions of people every week. The Depression helped create an enormous boom in the entertainment industry Panati (1991). Shoes made a stealthy entrance into the world of cinema as a minor element but they soon demonstrated they were able to characterise not only an epoch but also a personality. Shoes became an extension of the character and created in the audience the desire to imitate and make them more important by wearing the same shoes as their screen idols. Mass production meant clothing was more affordable and fashion much less formal. Gradually the glamour sense became more sophisticated for all and not just the privileged few. The popular cinema influenced the main design of fashion (Cassin-Scott 1997 p.175: Baynes & Baynes, 1979) Screen fashions began to influence the couture houses of Paris (Pattison & Cawthorne, 1997) as the movie stars of Hollywood became role models for millions. Elements of escapism and flights of fantasy crept into every fashion. When skirt lengths came down to mid calf, Hollywood had to re-shoot entire movies to include them. Improved manufacturing techniques meant clothing became more affordable and as a result fashion became less formal and fashion sense for all became more sophisticated. Repeal of the Prohibition Laws in the US in 1933 gave good reason to celebrate and every reason to dress up. Italian, Salvatore Ferragamo moved to Hollywood in 1923 where he created shoes for biblical epics of Cecil B de Mille's (i.e. The Ten Commandments and The King of Kings). Soon he was taking commissions for all the top studios, making shoes for John Barrymore, Lillian Gish and Rudolph Valentino, Pola Negri, Mary Pickford, among many others. At first female characters were often portrayed in over-simplistic forms. The good heroines played by Mary Pickford and Lillian Gish were pure, innocent and sugary sweet. Mary Pickford had tiny feet (Baynes & Baynes, 1979), and both she and her sister had their shoes made by Ferragamo. Lilian Gish preferred to wear multicoloured satin, slippers style sandals. Bad girls were like Pola Negi were darkly melodramatic and wicked temptresses. They were dressed to emphasise these characteristics. The vampish Negi bought her shoes by the dozen and preferred to buy white satin shoes, which she dyed to suit her outfits. She detested dirty shoes and also hated cleaning them so, was in the habit of throwing five or six pairs out each month. The idea of dying shoes caught on and many women dyed their white satin shoes to match their frocks often with contrasting heels. Hollywood cleverly adapted the period style of their historic dramas to suit the filmstar's contemporary looks and appearance. Clara Bow (The It Girl) was far more extrovert and epitomised the bold newly emancipated North American woman. She was full of pep and get up and go. Bouncy bobbed hair with frankly made up face and jokey sailor pants or girlish dresses with pleated skirts became her trademark. In keeping with her character, Clara Bow wore strappy, tap style shoes. Greta Garbo appeared as the mysterious European with the haunting beauty and chiselled features. Dressed in dipping brim hats, turned up collars, top coats, and evening dresses discretely dotted with glitter she represented a willing partner to seduction in her strappy sandals. Off screen, Garbo bought her shoes in bulk. Gloria Swanson had beautiful feet and liked to show them off by wearing highly decorated heels on her shoes. Delores Del Rio had a pair of rainbow evening shoes with gold ankle straps and tall gold heels. Esther Ralston had a pair of shoes, which were serpent shaped which were black and gold with high heels. On the vamp of each shoe was a snake head, and a sleek flexible gold body with painted scales writhed halfway up each leg. She was supposed to wear them in a jungle scene as a totem to scare off wild animals; instead she wore them to Hollywood night clubs and scared the life out of her fellow revellers. Claudette Colbert wore a pair of multicoloured pave wedge sandals with tubular straps in Cleopatra (1934). The shoes were made by David Evins. Mae West accentuated her hourglass figure and perfected hip-circling sway on 8 inch high platforms. Gloria Swanson was a self confessed altocalciphlie (heel fetish) and had many expensive high heeled shoes made for her. She preferred her heels to be decorated with rhinestones and imitation pearls. The style soon caught on. Fans adored them and worshipped their idols as demi-gods. Hairstyles and clothing were copied slavishly. According to Bond (1992) the influence of Hollywood was immense and far outstretched the dress designers, fashion magazines and newspapers of the time. All this came at a time when the rag trade was manufacturing for a mass market. Of all the Hollywood stars, Shirley Temple generated the greatest national mania and enormous marketing profits. From 1934-38 she registered the country's number one box office success. Entire industries sprang up marketing Shirley Temple clothes including shoes. This was the beginning of fashion shoes for children. In the ensuing years directors became obsessed with the correctness of clothing in period drama and Frederick Fellini had perfect replicas made of 18th century shoes for his film, Casanova. The shoes were most uncomfortable and pinched actor, Donald Sutherland feet forcing him to mince in the same manner as Casanova would in real life.

Bibliography
Baynes K & Baynes K 1979 The shoe show: British shoes since 1790 London :Crafts Council.
Bredemeier HC & Toby J Aesthetic patterns In Roach ME & Eicher JB (eds) 1965 Dress adornment and social order New York: John Wiley & Sons.
Bond D 1992 Glamour in fashion Enfield:Guinness Publishing.
Cassin-Scott J 1997 The illustrated encyclopaedia of costume and fashion from 1066 to the present London: Studio Vista.
Panati C 1991 Panati's parade of fads, follies and manias: The origin of our most cherished obsessions New York: Harper Perennial.
Pattison A & Cawthorne N 1997 A century of shoes: Icons of style in the 20th century Australia: Universal International.

What was the original purpose of clothing?

2009-01-18T15:35:00.000-08:00

According to the experts the greatest motive for wearing clothes was sexual. Not in the fig leaf sense (sinful) but to further enhance the attractiveness of the wearer. Human decoration has from the beginning of time celebrated procreation and demonstratively directed attention to the gender of the wearer. The theory of Displacement of Effect would support shoes became symbols of the primary sexual organs. As socialisation took place shoes became part of ritual for ceremonial purposes before eventually becoming costume for all (Harrold & Legg, 1986). Fashionable footwear has always been the prerogative of the ruling classes and up until the Middle Ages, the preserve of men. Only very much later did shoes become associated with protection from the elements and alien terrain. This was principally due to the lack of knowledge on how to construct robust, hard wearing footwear. In many ancient societies rank, gender and occupation were reflected in the styles and colours of footwear. Shoes remain remarkably unchanged since the beginning of time. During the thirteenth century France the concept of the ideal beauty was developed and took precise shape in the visual arts and literature. This was also seen in Italy where greater attention was paid to the perfection of the female body. In all the Italian states men and women translated this search after formal beauty into costume. The growth of towns and enrichment of the mercantile classes led to the emergence of a rich bourgeoisie. The preoccupation of the nouveaux riche was aspiring to the privileges of the nobility. Costumes became a means for one class to demonstrate this rise, and then further to emphasise its jealously guarded permanence. Another common use of decoration was the display of trophies. The strength and courage of animals was admired by the early hunters and gatherers who wore their skins to harness these qualities. This probably accounts for why shoes were made from animal skin. Prehistoric people decorated and scarified their skins to protect themselves from imaginary evil spirits. These patterns were incorporated into clothing designs as talisman with significant social and spiritual meaning. Such designs are clearly visible today in the brogue patterns worn in shoes. Victors also kept mementos of the vanquished, such as their testicles. These curios are seen in tassels on loafers. Lucky tokens were also a feature of primal decoration to which the penny loafer is a good example. Rank, occupation and wealth were also encoded into types of clothing. Unshod feet in Roman times were the mark of slaves, male citizens had the right to wear sandals, and military station was depicted by the height of boot worn by the soldier. From early biblical times elevated sandals were worn by sex workers.

The Seeing Being

2009-01-17T21:08:00.001-08:00

Frugal (1930) held the opinion clothing had an important social significance, which, if known, told much about the personality of the wearer. With the exception of hands and faces, clothing provides important signal from which humans can react. Out attire provides the safest distance to judge a stranger and the more intimate relationship then the more important finer features and speech play. Clothes serve three main purposes: decoration, modesty and protection. Whilst the latter may appear the most logical it is not supported by history (both ancient and modern). Fig leaf mentality may explain why we have covered up, but by far the major reason for clothing is decoration. The essential purpose of decoration is to beautify bodily appearance, so as to attract admiring glances from others and fortify self-esteem. Modesty, on the other hand, makes us hide bodily excellence in an attempt to refrain from drawing attention of others. When decoration and modesty are pitted together this can provide a psychological conflict or neurosis. The degree of harmony or compromise between conflicting interests may be clearly seen in shoes. Feet are not secondary sexual characteristics, albeit they have been sexualised. Sigment Freud, was convinced upright stance led to the frontal display of both primary and secondary sex organs and argued humans had no need to develop other senses when greatest benefit was gained by perfecting sight. Further as bipeds our feet separate us from all other beings because unlike them we have a weightbearing heel, and inside arch, and big toe for ground leverage. Their significance is humans were able to develop an upright stance and the two million years of evolution between Homo rectus and Homo sapian meant the human brain became far more complex. Anthropologists believe weightbearing feet influenced the form and function of buttocks, bosoms; the legs and thighs, tummies, hips and even genitalia. The pedal extremities are well supplied by nerve pathways which transmit messages to multiple and diverse areas of the brain, including the sensory parietal lobe. Not by coincidence then the sensory centre for feet lies in close proximity to sensory nerves of the genitalia. This may explain, why for some people neural print-through causes their feet to become sexually expressive. However for the vast majority feet remain sensual objects. In any event we are the only beings on the planet to be able to make love standing up, face to face.

The begining of leggings, hosery and stockings

2009-01-16T14:15:00.000-08:00

During the Crusades and Gothic periods (1000-1300) linen hose made from two-leg profile pieces replaced tube hose sewn together Bigelow (1970). These were held up with tapes tied to the waistband. Under the hose was worn a shapeless pair of linen legs which were stitched through the crutch, hemmed at the top and gathered by a drawstring around the waist. In time the outer hose were joined and called the closed hose or pair of legs. The invention of the knitting machine by William Lee in the sixteenth century revolutionised hosiery making. They became cheaper and were popular with both sexes. Hose came in bright colours often embroidered with gold thread on the instep and up the shin. The development of better knitting techniques was enveloped as well as the introduction of the full bottom hose and codpiece. The leg sections of these limb coverings were made to fit more smoothly by means of a series of small darts, hidden by embroidery, around the ankles of the hose. As doublets and suercotehardies came into general use the hose or chausses were first worn over the breeches but eventually these became only brief trunks and were then discarded in favour of the full bottom hose. Either these styles of leg coverings were attached to the doublets or jupes by cord laces with metal tap tips. (Bigelow, 1970). Hose were often decorated with embroidered clocks decorative patterns extending from the ankles to the calf. (Bigelow, 1970). In the 14th century, for a short period shoes were discarded in favour of stockings with leather soles. (Anderson Black & Garland, 1970). In the eighteenth century both men and women wore stockings made of silk or wool. These were usually white. Women’s stockings often had decoration open work over the instep or horizontal stripes and random patterns of rosebuds (Bigelow, 1970).

Bibliography
Anderson-Black J. Garland M. 1975 A history of fashion London: Orbis Publishing.
Bigelow MS 1970 Fashion in history apparel in the western world Minneapolis: Burgess Publishing Co

Shoes:Fantasy and fetish

2009-01-14T15:10:00.000-08:00

By the reign of Queen Victoria well bred women could not be acknowledged as possessing anything as potentially carnal as legs. So the term lower limb was used to describe the leg which is still a convention in medicine. Ironically, crinoline was incredibly seductive and the steel hoops that buoyed the skirt kept it in a permanent state of motion The slightest pressure at one point raised it correspondingly at the opposite side, often revealing a titillating and tantalising glimpse of the forbidden flesh. Ankles and feet became a focus for sexual allure and anything and everything which covered them all the more attractive. Simple court pumps disappeared and were replaced with the ankle boot. Partly worn as a fashion in honour of Wellington and Queen Victoria, the boot complemented the crinoline dresses and provided a foot corset enjoyed by men and understood by women. As trade and travel took on international dimensions in the 19th century, the prized fabrics of the orient joined the French fashion world. The eastern look was dignified and exotic, symbolic of a sophisticated understanding of the world. Shoes styles had names like the Empress. With the cotton trade came delicate gauze or layers of sheer fabrics for dresses. Shoes needed to match and were decorated with pearl buttons, or bead buttons and rhinestones. Repression and prudery generated new outlets for sexual expression. The fashion to conceal the female leg under floor length skirts and boots was so successful that the mere glimpse of a women's ankle was a cause for arousal. Women's ankles and by extension their shoes and boots became symbols of more hidden body parts, and lusting after their feet or footwear was deemed strictly taboo. Not surprisingly, by 1850 with the introduction of photography an underground market for pornography and shoes with 6 inch heels flourished in London. Leopold von Sacher-Masoch, from which the word masochism comes, freely wrote of his experiences where he allowed his mistresses to whip and walk on him. He was delighted to kiss the shoes that performed the action. Well over a century later, shoe fetishism flourishes although it remains a social taboo because of its association with cross dressing and Algolagnia or S&M. The fetish shoe often incorporates locks, chains and high heels. The locks represent the idea the feet are precious and owned by the admirer. Chains restrict movement, which reinforce the power game being played out between "slave and master". According to some anatomists wearing high heels changes the distribution of mass around the body and, and tilts the pelvis into a precoital position. Fetish shoes are often black or red, made in patent leather, and fit the foot like a corset. Boots are often extended to knee or thigh and have platform soles to extend the length of the leg. In today's society, cross-dressing is still viewed with great suspicion however many people are specifically attracted to style associated with the opposite sex because of their allure. Naturally they wish to explore the full ensemble. As Rossi so eruditely puts it "fashion is the artisan of mascarade." Erotic symbolism is not expressed in all footwear in the same way and the sex appeal features in shoe design must comply with the psychosocial personality of the individual. Eroticism often infers dominance of one partner over another popular foreplay with foot fetishists and algophiles is tickling. Tramping describes walking over your partner. A little more uncomfortable than tickling but still relatively harmless. Crushing describes standing on your partner with stiletto heels. Definitely not for the fainthearted and more than likely to cause perforation of the skin. The bazaar practice is more for the discerning s&m user.

Potted history of high heeled shoes

2009-01-13T13:58:00.000-08:00

Some historians believe the fashion for high heeled shoes arose as a modification of the chopine (the original platforms). Shoe makers carved out the forefoot section of the platform and created a heel. This made the elevated shoe easier and safer to walk in. Elevated shoes had been known from early Hellenic times however this phase of fashion was the first time shoes were associated with the female sex. The true heel as we know it today was not introduced until the middle of the twentieth century when technology and design fashioned the stiletto heel. In the sixteenth century, height challenged Catherine de Medici wore heeled mules when she married the King of France. She had moved from Florence, the centre of fashion and flair to Paris, and as was the custom took with her the costumes and customs of her heritage. Heeled shoes became an instant success and the fashion remained in vogue throughout her lifetime. Many experts believe this was the true beginning of fashion because it was the first time ever a costume had lasted the life time of an individual. After her death heeled shoes for ladies became passé but high-heeled shoes became popular with men as well as a trademark of sex workers of the time. Prior to the French Revolution contemporary medical reports described the changes in posture associated with wearing high heels. ‘Medical gaze' was firmly transfixed to women and ignored men completely. Women of distinction no longer wore heeled shoes preferring the new style of heel-less pumps and some authorities believe this was a veiled attempt to moralize by misogynists. High heels for men were considered in vogue during the 17 & 18th century. Louis XIV became fanatical about them and banned anyone other than the privileged classes from wearing them on penalty of death. The Sun King was of short stature and may have preferred the borrowed height heels could give him. The heels of men's shoes often were painted with miniature rustic or romantic scenes. Different shapes were experimented with including hourglass heels. Also during this time men's shoes were ornamented with silver buckles. The Louis Heel was invented by Louis XV (1715-1774) was splayed at the base with a wasted section, which is still used in modern female fashion. He also introduced the white shoe to match his hose but red heels survived until 1760. The term "down on your heels" is thought to relate to the habit of the rich towering over the poor. Late in the 16th century rounded toe shoes were popular but heels for women's shoes were not introduced until the beginning of the seventeenth century. Instead wedge shaped soles were popular; these thrust the foot forward like a heel. Most shoes of the period were leather or heavy velvet and were made in a number of different colours, Most were simple slip-ons but some fastened with a lace, or buckle at the instep. Thigh length boots were fashionable and were sometimes heavily decorated at the thigh and attached to the doublet by suspenders. (Anderson Black J Garland M, 1970). Until 1615 shoes might have had their uppers slashed to show the stockings or linings. After this date decoration was chiefly concentrated on ribbon ties and shoe roses. After 1680 the instep fastening was usually a strap and buckle. After the French Revolution heel heights lowered. The new socialist government was short of money and many shoe buckles were donated to the cause. Ladies in the early part of the nineteenth century wore low-heeled satin shoes but as the twentieth century approached high-heeled boots for women became vogue. Stylish shoes were low cut and worn with silk stockings. Worker women wore lace ups. Women began by the 30’s to wear square-toed shoes. Men’s became progressively narrower and were worn by the dandies of the day. Both men and women wore striped socks and stockings respectively with women wearing lace up boots. By 1884 ladies wore shoes of fancy leather and pointed toes. These were highly decorated with rosettes and heels, one and a half to two inches high. In the first decade of the twentieth century court shoes with lacing and T straps were popular. Women sometimes wore high heeled calf length buttoned or laced boots with shorter and wider skirts. As the decade progressed however boots fell from fashion. Men started to wear light coloured socks and laced shoes. Women wore high heeled court shoes trimmed with decorative buckles; spats by 1924 had become passé. After the Depression walking shoes with low heels were fashionable. Evening wear included court shoes with Louis heels. Toe cleavage was seen with peekaboo cutaways. This fashion appeared in 1936. By the forties most of fashion for women’s shoes had become heavy and practical and by the end of rationing platform shoes were reintroduced. In the fifties, shoes became lighter in appearance and were worn with stiletto high heels and pointed toes.

Bibliography
Anderson-Black J. Garland M. 1975 A history of fashion London: Orbis Publishing.

Slippers and Roses

2009-01-12T14:22:00.000-08:00

In the later 16th and early 17 century men’s shoes were low heeled and decorated with bows and huge sparkling rosettes of spangled ribbons. By 1641 shoes were tied with a ribbon rather then rosette. Merchant’s wives wore high-heeled shoes trimmed with modest rosettes (compared to the male). In 1661 men wore linen garters tight leggings and high heeled shoes with narrow toes, and tied with bows. Women’s styles were similar shaped but with a lower heel. Later after the French Revolution (1789–1799) gentlemen became more conservative. A new fashion for indoor slippers (mules) saw men wearing soft covered, comfortable heel less mules with which to relax. For a time square-toed shoes were fashionable then the Macaronis wore flat-heeled dancing pumps with round jewelled buckles. Ladies wore neoclassic styled white silk shoes crossed with ribbons in imitation of classical sandals. In the early 18th century satin pumps with high spoon heels and very pointed toes became fashionable for women. Bows and elaborate ties were less fashionable and toes were rounded and the heels lowered. Later in this century women started to wear an adaptation of the Grecian sandal as the classic fashion took over. Low cut slippers replaced high heel pumps during the last years of the century. Women wore high heeled slippers of brocade, kid and velvet in light hues. They were often embroidered with gold and silver threads. Buckles of gold and silver were decorated with imitations or precious gems were attached to the instep. Satin pointed toed, pumps with high spool heels became vogue in the middle of the century. Later the shoe became less decorative and was made of plain kid or satin. Rounder toes and lower heels were all the fashion between 1740-1790. Men's slippers were made of soft black leather or striped fabric. Ladies slippers were little more than leather shells laced over the instep and up the legs to the calves. Slippers gaiters were worn to protect shoes/stocking outside. By the early nineteen hundreds the Turkish style was in fashion, men wore pointed vamp slippers with long smoking jackets. Square-toed boots became vogue and were worn with light coloured gaiters.

Posh Shoes circa 16th Century

2009-01-10T19:18:00.000-08:00

Until the end of the fifteenth century, centres of population were comparatively isolated from each other. Come the next century with improved trade and transport there was a greater sharing of cultures. Florence was the centre of the universe. The women of Florence began to wear platform shoes called chopines. Originating either in the east or some say Spain the chopines were worn by women to increase their height. Some were often 24 inches off the ground and ladies required to be escorted through the streets. This is when walking canes became fashionable and escorts would walk on their right hand side to protect the ladies from the passing carriages, leaving their right hand to draw a sword. The idea of the groom standing on the right side of their bride may have come from this time. The style was talked about all over Europe but may have only been worn by Venetian women. Shakespeare includes a mention in Hamlet and the style was laterally associated with depraved and dissolute women. These were eventually banned after many women reported miscarriages as a result of falling. Few portraits of ladies wearing chopines are available which has led McDowell to conclude this was a short-lived style. Venetian prostitutes used to wear the chopines the height they needed to stand out in the street. Another popular shoe was the patten, which consisted of a wooden block fitted to a delicate slipper, or hose, which was worn as overshoes to protect the foot and delicate tapestry from the dirt, covered streets. Patten probably is from the French word patte meaning paw. Contemporary medical reports described the changes in posture associated with wearing platforms. This was the beginning of medical interest in elevated footwear.

Why did shoes get so broad?

2009-01-09T20:56:00.000-08:00

Footwear throughout history has supplied a social ritual, the knowledge of which indicated, breeding and status. The wealthy classes of the Middle Ages indulged their superiority by wearing sumptuous clothing and shoes. These became symbols, serving to indicate standards of conduct as well as emotional states. The author explores the sumptuary social convention of mens’ footwear of the medieval period and draws interesting conclusions on contemporary safe sex practice of our ancestors as well as the design of orthopaedic shoes. From antiquity to the present day foot ulcers and their treatments have always presented problems to healers. The question I pose in this presentation is, over the last millennium how far have we come in shoe design for the compromised limb. Zeitgeist means a sign of the times and shoe fashions are not determined by chance but the times and technology we live in. Disease and how we cope, is arguably the most fundamental human characteristic of all our traits and I propose to demonstrate this by comparing today’s “orthopaedic footwear” with that of the Middle Ages, and by doing so make reference to that other human frailty, sex. For the purpose of comparison I have taken Charcot neuropathy to represent a common denominator between the 15th century and the 21st century.

Charcot foot was first described in people with tertiary syphilis but now is seen more usually in severe diabetes mellitus (Caputo et al 1998). The condition describes a progressive deterioration of weight-bearing joints which are usually in the foot or ankle. Charcot foot is also found in people suffering from alcoholic neuropathy, sensory loss caused by cerebral palsy or leprosy, and congenital insensitivity to pain. First described in 1868, the condition is recognised by an unusual pattern of bone destruction found in patients with tabes dorsalis. Much later in 1936, the same neuro-arthropathy was described in diabetics. The discovery of antibiotics markedly reduced the incidence of syphilis in the general population in the 20th century whilst almost at the same time as diabetes mellitus became more prevalent. In the Middle Ages the life expectancy of an insulin dependant diabetic was short however people living with tertiary syphilis were far more likely to survive to the later stages of neurosyphilis with attended destructive infection of the brain and or spinal cord giving rise to severe symptoms fifteen or twenty years after the initial syphilis infection. Today, it is estimated almost 50% of people with severe neuropathy have associated plantar ulcerations and the author can only postulate the same incidence was found in the Middle Ages, and probably higher.

Syphilis was long been thought to be a disease introduced to Europe in the 15th century (carried by Christopher Columbus’s crew). Syphilis is caused by the bacterium Treponema palladium and most medical authorities now accept treponmeal disease existed in Europe prior to this time but the new strain was more virulent and was spread by sexual contact. In the century that followed, Europe was devastated as syphilis spread to Russia, China, India and Africa causing possibly the world‘s first STD epidemic. Initially physicians were left helpless and refused to treat the suffering leaving them to barbers, bath attendants and quacks (many of which were corn cutters). The presence of the pox and the knowledge of its transmission gave reason to influence sexual practises. Two types of neurosyphilis were common tabes dorsalis was characterised by a progressive locomotor ataxia (due loss of proprioception), lightning pains and urinary incontinence. Sensory ataxia caused people to stoop forward and walk with a wide based, "high-stepping" gait. General paresis the other complication of neurosyphilis caused brain damage which presented as impaired mental function with personality disorders including grandiose delusions.

After the Crusades promiscuous sex among the privileged classes in Europe was prevalent but modern scholars acknowledge the Influence of Islam formed the basis for European Chivalry and Courtly Love. The conventions of courtly love taught young men to sublimate their desires and channel their energies into socially useful behaviour. To do otherwise might have threatened social stability especially at a time when feudal lords and knights were engaged in the Crusades. For people to break these taboos only reinforced the strength and drive for sexual pleasure which transcended any moral precept. European courtly love flourished in the early 12th century and the high minded ideals of true romance spread when troubadours sang openly of love’s joys and heartbreaks in daringly personalised terms, extolling the ennobling effects of the lover’s’ selfless devotion. The relationship was always illicit i.e. the woman was the wife of another, often a lord or patron and its consummation was virtually impossible.

Troubadour’s songs promoted a love yearned for, and at times rewarded by, the solace of every delight of the beloved except physical possession by sexual intercourse. However two "intimate ceremonies" of courtship were common. Domnei or woman worship was where the would-be suitor gazed on the partly or fully undressed lady; and Donnoi when a couple lay naked together sometimes separated only by a pillow. Kissing and embrace were encouraged but the lovers proved their depth of love by avoiding sexual intercourse. These behaviours were highly sensual and carnal and under the circumstances and with no stretch of the imagination a 24" long extension on the end of the foot, (the long toed shoe) could be put to very practical use. At a time in history when married couples were parted or marriage was delayed, masturbation provided the perfect solution. By the same token heavy petting would provide a practical form of birth control especially at a time when religious or civil authorities rarely interfered with women’s business. In Occidental Society mens’ long toed shoes may have provided the ideal means of birth control and later provide protection from sexually transmitted disease.

From the 11th century the length of men’s shoes in Europe got longer and longer until they were 24 inches longer than the foot. Despite papal laws to prevent the lower classes from wearing long poulaines, the fashion continued unabated for four hundred years. Men’s shoes were stuffed with moss and grass and small hawk bells were sewn on the end of the shoe to indicate the wearer was interested in sexual frolics. Poulaines caused men to adopt a wide based, high stepping gait and this became the norm for fashionable courtiers. The same clinical pattern is seen in people with advanced tabes dorsalis.

About the same time European courts were introduced to the Court Jester or professional fool. As Willeford wrote:

"When the king was a syphilitic semi-imbecile, a jester even more grotesque may have served as a useful stage prop, disarming criticism by making the king look more nearly normal by comparison and thus making the make-believe of kingship possible."

Medievil fashions took many years to change in part due to the absence of a mass media, unlike today. However something happened at the end of the 15th century and the fashion for long toed shoes became passé, very quickly. Absence of written documentation means the reasons for this are unclear. From contemporary paintings, the only evidence available, the style was quickly replaced by shoes which were so broad across the ball if the foot as to boast of individual compartments for each toe. The podiatrist’s delight was called Bears Paws. The same principle is caught in the design of today’s post-surgical moon boots used to support and protect injured tissue. One other clinical outcome of neurosyphilis is Charcot foot where trophic ulceration decimates the sole of the foot. Decreased sensation and the ability to feel temperature, pain or trauma, which follows mean feet with a total lack of feeling, need complete protection. In days of old those who could afford it would heavily bandage the foot and encase the Bears Paw shoes. Today the availability of new polymer chemistry allows compromised feet to be protected by total contact casts and orthotic walking braces.

What I have just recounted is conjecture, and in the absence of written evidence, must remain so. Whether shoes became sex toys by necessity and sexualisation of the foot, a focus for safe sex, will never be clear. However something strange did happened in the 11th century and the presence of a global epidemic of sexually transmitted disease did correspond to a curious preoccupation with feet (Oriental Society) and footwear (Occidental Society). Although these phenomenons are well documented, the socio-anthropological reasoning for their existence remains unexplained.

This was originally presented as a lecture at the FIP Conference in Copenhagen, May 2007.

Bibliography
Biro G 1998 Detecting a syphilis variant Australian Doctor October 55
Cochrane J 1996 An illustrated history of medicine London Tiger Books Internetional.
Caputo G.M, Ulbrecht J, Cavanagh P.R., and Juliano P 1998 The Charcot foot in diabetes: six key points - red, swollen foot American Family Physician, June, 1998.
Cavanagh PR, Young MJ, Adams JE, Vickers KL, Boulton AJ. Radiographic abnormalities in the feet of patients with diabetic neuropathy. Diabetes Care 1994;17:201-9.
Cross Giblin J 1995 When plague strikes: The black death , smallpox, AIDS NY:Harper Collins
Giannini A J., Coplapietro G., Slaby A E., Melemis S M., Bowman RK 1998 Sexualization of the female foot as a response to sexually transmitted epidemics : a preliminary study Psychology Reports 83: 491-498.
Margotta R 1996 The Hamlyn History of medicine London: Reed International Books Ltd
Porter R 1997 Medicine a history of healing Lewes:Ivy Press
Quinter J 1999 The great condom mystery Medical Observer June 1985
Smith C 1998 A 15th-century plague in all its agony Medical Observer May 77.
Taylor T 1996 The prehistory of sex: Four million years of human sexual culture NY: Bantam Books.
van Santen J 1998 Them bone, them bones, them scarred bones Medical Observer May 76.

Broad toed shoes

2009-01-09T20:51:00.000-08:00

By the end of the Middle Ages clothes had become important symbols of social status. A mass of symbols served to indicate emotional states, such as joy and grief in the finer shades. Shoes supplied a kind of social ritual the knowledge of which indicated breeding. There were symbols marking particular occasions as well as standard of conduct. Paris was already the home of fashion and of polite Western manners. During the thirteenth century in France the concept of the ideal beauty was developed and took precise shape in the visual arts and literature. This was also seen in Italy where greater attention was paid to the perfection of the female body. In all the Italian states men and women translated this search after formal beauty into costume. This may explain why the broad shoe called Duck's bill, Scarpine or Bear's Paw came into being. Broad enough to accommodate each toe, Duck bill shoes were as much as 12 inches broad. Men who wore Duck's bill adopted a waddling gait. The uppers were made from silks, brocades and velvets. The shoes were heavily padded, puffed, and embroidered. The upper of the shoe had fine cuts (or slashing) in the leather to show the coloured hose or sumptuous lining beneath. Often the shoes were lined with soft fur to resemble pubic hair and as the foot moved, skin could be observed through the open and closing slits, vaginal like. This was considered to resemble the female genitalia. By 1492 the toes of men’s shoes became rounded. High fronted shoe with bulbous toes were worn towards the end of the 15th century. Coloured hose for men were in vogue and the shoe the ideal means of displaying them. Stockings or tights were worn in two layers: a dark inner one and a plain outer layer which was cut into narrow vertical strips for most of its length. In 1540 women wore woollen or linen hose with square-toed shoes that were cut low at the front and sides and fastened with straps. Men’s shoes were closed to the ankle and had rounded toes with uppers that were slashed diagonally. These were often studded with tiny jewels and worn with a slight heel. Slashing was a fashion statement, which may have had its origins in war torn, look-alike. The style was popular for about a century till it was eventually condemned and outlawed throughout Europe. In the reign of Queen Mary, (Bloody Mary - 1516-58) sumptuary laws were passed to limited the breadth of shoes. These shoes were also known as solerets. Slimmer shapes replaced the broad duck's bill shoes, first the low cut escaffignins, wide and puffed at the toes, then the heelless eschapins, which covered the foot and were slashed on top. The growth of towns and enrichment of the mercantile classes led to the emergence, everywhere of a rich bourgeoisie, which aspired to the privileges of the nobility. Costume became a means for one class to demonstrate its rise, and for another to emphasise its jealously guarded permanence. Women wore soft ankle strap slippers with puffed and slashed round toes. In the 16th century the T strap was introduced. Round toed sandals, raised by two heels one under the ball of the foot the other under the heel. High fronted shoes with decorative slashed uppers remained popular till 1588. By then men were wearing white shoes with long pointed toes and pinked uppers. Women also wore these shoes although some wore chopines closed at the ankles. Countryman’s clothing was more functional and they wore spurred boots turned down at the knee. Women continued to wear shoes without fastenings, which fitted closely around the ankles. Mules worn on stocking clad feet were often studded with pearls. During the reign of Elizabeth I (1533-1603) a platform sole about I inch thick became popular. The ladies of the court wore mules high heeled slippers with closed toe straps fur trimmed and made of brocade. The pump was designed with an over sized tab that covered the instep and rose to the ankle. Pattens were often worn to protect delicate shoes from the elements. Rabbit ear bows were worn with high heeled shoes. (Bigelow, 1970).

Brief history of poulaines or long toed shoes

2009-01-08T05:35:00.000-08:00

During the early Middle Ages Royalty wore slippers of purple silk trimmed with pearls or embroidery. Both men and women wore shorter boots whereas the longer boot was exclusively men’s' fashion. In the 11 and 12th centuries workers wore the open toed crepita and laced calcaneus. (Bigelow 1970). Both stockings and socks were worn but the Normans preferred the former and the Saxons the latter. William II (William Rufus) enjoyed wearing sumptuous stockings refusing to wear anything under a mark in price. By the High Middle Ages fashion had costume for men and the fashion for long toed shoes called pigaches or poulaines caught on. The fashion lasted over three hundred years before it was eventually legislated against. At first extensions soon became longer and longer until they were so long they made walking almost impossible. Young bucks started to stuff wool and moss in the extensions to keep them erect. Blatantly phallic the long shoe now 24 inches longer than the foot had chain attachments to the knee to prevent tripping. A popular vulgarity was to paint the extensions flesh coloured, allowing them to flap with lifelike mobility. Small hawke bells were sewn to the end of the poulaine to indicate the wearer was a willing partner in sexual frolic. "Footsie, footsie" took on a more meaningful importance during this time and many boring banquets were enhanced with below table shenanigans. Sometimes worn by curling the toes, the poulaine was the forerunner to the codpiece. The origins of the shoes remain clouded but in some places they were referred to as Crackowe shoes. Certainly the fashion was wide spread throughout Europe and their popularity unopposed. Exaggeration is a constant theme of fashion and is used to give maximum impact to a new look and to prolong the life of a dying one. This may account for the eccentricities, which glorified masculine sexuality in a most obvious way. Youths were chastised for standing on the street corners waggling their toes suggestively as the young ladies walked by. The appearance of the poulaine was perhaps less by chance and more to do with and undercurrent belief in the worship of Phallus. This predated Christianity and may have represented a conscious resurfacing of occult practice in the Middle Ages. The Church was aware of the audacity of poulaines and shocked at the overt and ribald obscenity of the habit of wearing them. Sumptuary legislation to stop men from wearing them was introduced because the shoes physically prevented men from praying. The Papal edict met with dumb silence. In defence of the shoes, it may have been the way men wore their hose tightly laced to their doublets that prevented them from kneeling. In any event the shoes were branded as Satan's Curse (or Satan's Claw) and university professors were banned from wearing them in the thirteenth century. Many of the clergy were at a loss to explain the Black Plague (1347) and so blamed the poulaine as God's revenge for wearing them. Yet still the style prevailed until the length of shoes was later legislated for but not because of faith or breach of faith, instead because it was as a function of social status. Between 1327 and 1377, during the reign of Edward III (1312-1377), pointed toes were prohibited to all who did not have an income of at least forty pounds a year. And while a prince might wear shoes as long as he liked, pikes could not be more than six inches long for a plain commoner, twelve inches for a landowner (bourgeois), Knights, one and a half feet; and twenty four inches for a baron, and princes could wear them as long as they liked. From about 1340 onwards men started to wear shorter garments called gippons or pourpoints. Long garments survived at court and ecclesiastical and academic circles. Short garments exposed the leg and required hose that was better supported and tighter. These were generally made to measure and available in different styles. There were fur lined hose, hose for horse riding, soled hose which replaced shoes. Despite the alternatives, poulaines remained popular throughout Europe until in 1367, when Pope Urban V eventually banned commoners from wearing the winklepicker shoe. He threatened excommunication and in some cases death to the lower echelons of society but was less adamant with the upper and ruling classes. Turning a blind eye to their open promiscuity, and granting those of royal birth immunity to wear the poulaine. As the fashion re-emerged in France, Charles V (the Wise) (1338-80), forbid the wearing of "trop ultragueses poulaines". Little notice was taken and in 1386 at the battle of Sempach, Austrian Knights who wished to dismount to fight needed the help of their armourer to snap off the long toes. According to Ribeiro & Cumming (1989), Richard II (1377-1399) bought whalebones for the points of his shoes in 1393-4. The fashion reached its peak towards 1460-70 when Edward IV (1442-1483) enacted a public law prohibiting shoe maker from making shoes with more than two inch extensions for under privileged persons. The end of the poulaine was foretold by two episodes. The first involved the death of Duke Leopold II of Austria, who died because his long pointed shoes impeded him from escaping his assassins. The second was because Charles VIII had polydactylism or six toes on each foot. The regent required broad square-toed shoes which changed the fashion. The winkle picker did eventually return in fashion but not before the introduction of the heel. In the fifteenth century women started to wear poulaines but the fashion was short lived. Many women were persecuted as witches because they wore unusual attire, cross-dressing in the manner of wearing men's shoes or poulaines was enough to convince the fearful of guilt.

Shoes of the Early Middle Ages

2009-01-07T18:22:00.000-08:00

The Celts wore untanned leather shoes with the fur left on the inside of the shoe. They were constructed in one piece with the upper and sole together. The shoes were fastened with leather thongs through holes made near the edge of the upper. The thongs wound together over the instep and round the ankle. Tutonic shoes (12th century) were similar to Celtic footwear. Anglo Saxons wore boots higher behind the knee than in front. During the 11/12th centuries working people would wear thick course hose with leather soles. Northern tribes wore the gallicae which was a simple boot made of two pieces and reaching the ankle. They were worn with crude gaiters, primitively knitted woollen socks and paison. (Bigelow, 1970) Shoe and boot makers had become highly skilled and a wide variety of new forms and perfected older styles were used. Brodequins or high shoes with laces were made of leather and worn worn by the lower classes while the upper class dawned heuze a high boot made of soft leather laced and fitted with a tongue beneath the centre opening. Sometimes heuze were buttoned or buckled at the ankle. The nobility wore soft silk slippers indoors and women wore soft leather slippers tied or buckled at the ankle both in and out of doors. Between the fourth and tenth centuries, hose was made of knitted material in a tube shape. Tapes sewn to the tops served as simple garter support, possibly tied to a cloth belt worn around the waist under the gonelle or kirtle. Men wore their hose either under their breeches or pulled up over them. In warm weather the working classes wore their stockings crushed down over their boot tops. Women wore soft fur lined boots indoors during the winter time. The botte or bottes were simple bedroom slippers.

Bibliography
Bigelow MS 1970 Fashion in history apparel in the western world Minneapolis: Burgess Publishing Co.

Shoes from early Christian times to the Dark Age

2009-01-07T02:18:00.001-08:00

With the fall of the Western Roman Empire and the barbarian invasions, craftsmanship declined across Europe. Common people went barefoot or wore rough clogs and sandals almost become extinct as the art of sandal making was nearly lost. Due to the size of the Empire and the Romans’ policy to train others in shoe making it survived in pockets but became more integrated into ethnic shoe styles of the region. The elaborate sandals and open work bootees of Imperial Rome were still worn by the affluent of 5th century Byzantium. These were extremely expensive and according to Anderson-Black & Garland (1975) the shoes were made of soft leather or material with leather soles and a strap across the instep with fastening on the outside. Soft boots and shoes were worn by all classes. Shoes and boots were heavily decorated with gems and the boots in Byzantine times were worn to the calf. The shoes of Charlemagne were described as gilt covered and distinguished by long latches. His nephew wore wooden shoes with uppers of leather and laced through with leather thongs. Worn closely to the foot the toe shape was narrow and pointed at the great toe. This was thought to be the way to tell left from right. The same style of footwear were found through to the 9th century. Fastenings sometimes incorporated jewelled clasps at the front of the ankle. Early Christians began to celebrate the goodness of creation as shoes took on a religious significance. Colour was specific to rank and privilege and amongst the most sought after gifts of the time were a pair of shoes. Costs were so prohibitive; people bequeathed their footwear to family and loved ones. Hence the saying, "following in your father's footsteps." The expression of love for God often took on sexual metaphors including footwear. Women wore flat soled slippers made of leather and died red, green, purple or white. Sometimes they were gilded. The Consul wore red leather boots with ties crossing the instep and fastening around the ankles. Citizens wore yellow leather boots with ornamental ties on the outside of the calf. Soldiers wore leather soled boots with brown yarn which stretched and required no fastening. The emperor wore boots of crimson leather sewn with pearls and worn higher over the knee that the back. By the sixth century AD shoes fastened in graceful ways. A revival of toeless Greek bootees was a feature of the 6century. Ankle boots were in vogue and laced up the front or side, leaving the toes free. Rich decoration was the custom, and shoes were often embroidered with jewels. Boots and shoes followed the natural line of the foot and were made of leather, cloth or felt. Round about the ninth century a distinction in shape between the right and left foot began to be made by the Anglo Saxon shoemakers. Once the new notion of use of clothing had become generally accepted the art of costume developed and expanded. It formed a convenient mode of expressing rank. The 10th century man wore shoes of soft brown leather with openwork striping and jewelled ornament in the centre of the instep. Frankish boots called pedules were made of soft leather or cloth and were turned over at the top, below the knee. The upper of the boots were sewn with pearls. Women continued to wear soft shoes of the same designs as those of men. By the time of the Norman Conquest shoes were richly worked in leather, cloth or silk, and ornamented with gold. The Norman shoe fitted closely to the foot and finished at the ankle, sometimes having a rolled border. At this time shoes developed definite long points. Many pilgrims went barefoot and a flatfoot was viewed with considerable suspicion. Shoes themselves could be omens of good and bad as many cultures believed the shoe housed the spirit of its owner.

Bibliography
Anderson-Black J. Garland M. 1975 A history of fashion London: Orbis Publishing.

Interesting site
Carlson IM 1999 Footwear of the middle ages

Sandals: Style and Fashion

2009-01-05T20:33:00.000-08:00

The Greeks took good care of their feet and adapted their footwear for every type of activity. Women at first went barefoot but soon wore sandals as both style and quality of sandals flourished. Shoes were used to identify station with the height of the sole and the colour orientation indicating the wearer's social class. The Greeks emphasised design and beauty with elegance, refinement, extravagance and rich ornamentation, especially for women. Greek women of ill repute wore elevated sandals to attract men's attention. Their sexy Trendelenburg wiggle created an audible "clacking" when walking and this was acknowledged as a deliberate flaunting of sexual charms. Romans devised military style thongs, which enabled their legions to travel the empire on foot. The caligae was a sturdy thick-soled heavy leather sandal with an upper that reached the instep. When victorious soldiers returned from war they frequently substituted the bronze nails, which held the caligae together with gold and silver tacks. Women's feet were a symbol of chastity and worshipped by fetishists. Senator Lucius Vitellus kept a shoe of his mistress under his tunic and would kiss it frequently. This type of fetishism, according to Ovid in his Ars Amandi, led Roman women to confine their feet into tiny shoes. The Romans, like the Greeks never entered a house without removing their shoes.

In the beginning mocassin or sandal?

2009-01-02T14:54:00.000-08:00

Because early footwear was made from vegetable and animal materials remnants are very rare which hampers any legitimate footwear provenance. Most anthropologists will guestimate animal skinned shoes appeared during the Ice Age (5000,000 years ago). Development of crafts and hunting existence combined with inclement weather in the Northern Hemisphere has lent many historians to believe the need for foot protection became apparent. The biggest find of shoes from this period is thought to date back to 8000 BC and belonged to Native Americans in Missouri. From the examples discovered there was evidence of left and right fittings and childrens’ shoes. Primitive shoes dating back to 3300BC were found on the Ice Man, discovered in the French Alps. According to (Spindler, 1993) the Neolithic herdsman of 3000 BC wore shoes on both feet similar to the footwear of the Laplanders. Each shoe consisted of an oval piece of leather with the edges turned up and bound with strong leather thongs. The material used was leather not fur and the soles were made from cowhide. Attached to the thongs was a net, knotted from grass cords to cover the instep and heel. Shoes were filled with grass to keep the feet warm. Boot leggings of fur were attached to leather soles and worn to protect against the weather. The boots were tied around the ankle with grass cords. Rough shoes protected the feet of Stone Age people from rocks and thorns. Mocassins are believed to be the first crafted foot coverings and were the successors to primitive wrappings. The design was both simple and practical. In warmer climated sandals evloved with stiff soles for protection and attached to the foot, usually with straps or thongs. The soles were made from almost anything that was at hand. Slate cosmetics tablets of Pharaoh Narmer (3000 BC) depict the Pharaoh followed by a slave bearing his sandals. The image suggests that in ancient Egypt the sandal was a sign of power and rank. The sandals were initially made from a footprint in wet sand. Braided papyrus was then moulded into soles and the sandals often had turned up toes. Sometimes the instep of the sandal was decorated with figures of men defeated in battle. The difference between the commoner's sandal and the Pharaoh's sandal was a peaked toe. This ostentatious extension had no function but merely denoted a person of high born status and historians believe this was the influence of Hittie (1280 BC). Soles were dyed and the sandals were made to accommodate right and left fittings. Egyptian women would adorn their sandals with jewels. Australian Aboriginal people wore rough sandals but only the central tribes were known to do so. The vast majority went unshod. Ceremonial shoes made from emu feathers were worn on special occasions by some members of the tribe.

Evolution

2009-01-01T15:42:00.000-08:00

The unique features of the human foot namely, heel, inside arch, and big toe have according to anthropologists made upright posture possible. Standing on two feet allowed hands to develop and some authorities consider this was the reason why the human brain became more complex. The expansion and elaboration of the brain certainly followed the development of the foot by several million years leaving many to conclude feet are key to human evolution. Bipedal stance has influenced the anatomical development of buttocks and bosoms; legs and thighs, as well as tummies and hips and the foot has played a major role in the evolution and development of other erogenous features of the human body. Singularly we remain the only species capable of copulation standing up and facing each other. Sigmund Freud, considered the development of upright stance led to display the primary and secondary sexual characteristics and humans perfected sight over the other sense as a result. Wilder Penfield, a twentieth century neuro-surgeon identified the parts of the brain responsible for organsmic activity, lay in close juxtaposition to the section responsible for feet, thereby establishing a strong erotic association. Anatomically the foot is one of the most innervated parts of the body and is as tactile as the hands. So there can be no surprise most people enjoy the sensual aspects of the feet in both pain and pleasure. The word shoe (Anglo Saxon: scoe) means to cover furtively and from the beginning shoes represent outwardly a non-verbal sign of gender, presence, and personality. Clothing was the safest way to determine a persons’ character at a distance and took on significant meaning from pre history onwards. Once the naughty bits were covered up it was possible to determine male from female by the visible extremities i.e. head and feet. Prehistoric people decorated and scarified their skins to protect themselves from imaginary evil spirits. These patterns were inevitably incorporated into clothing designs and used as talisman with significant social and spiritual meaning. Such designs are clearly visible today in the brogue patterns worn in shoes. Victors also kept trophies of the vanquished, such testicles. These remain in the form of shoes tassels on loafers. Rank, occupation and wealth were also encoded into clothing and shoes were no exception. Unshod feet in Roman times was the mark of slaves and only male citizens had the right to wear sandals. Military station was depicted by the height of boot on the leg and from early biblical times elevated sandals were worn by sex workers.

The Psycho-social of shoes

2009-01-01T00:53:00.000-08:00

Maybe I should begin this presentation with a warning to those amongst us with a gentle disposition, for what you are about to read will never make you trust another pair of shoes, or feet again. Your natural reaction will be, and I do not blame you, I have made it all up. However please let me reassure you that all you read is true, genuinely researched from legitimate sources and most certainly does not contain any personal bias or deviant preferences, from yours truly. Mythologies and folklore of many cultures are rich in material whose significance hinges on the bond which links the foot and sex together. Feet according to William A Rossi in his wonderful and toe curlingly funny book, The Sex Life of the Foot and Shoe (Kreiger, 1993) are 'sensual objects which often require to be hidden from unwanted attention.' Few artists have missed the visual sensuality of the foot and her curves, convolutions and toe cleavage that make the pedal organ of erotic association. The author attempts to outline shoe provenance as well as explore the mystique that surrounds equus eroticus and its importance to the human condition.